248 North Main Street, Barre, 476-8BBQ
The slogan at Ed’s is “The taste you can’t escape,” and crime
plays into every aspect of the restaurant. The windows are barred and fake
bullet holes addle the doorframes. The cheery yellow walls are bordered with
trompe l’oeil barbed wire. Mugshots of Frank Sinatra and Jim Morrison
adorn the spaces not painted with the names of Ed’s sauces and rubs, which he
has sold since 2005. Named for different levels of capital punishment, each
sauce that I tried had a unique personality.
Much of what passes for barbecue in Vermont is slow-cooked
pork slathered in barbecue sauce. Not so at Ed’s. Chicken, beef and pork are
smoked over apple wood and apple cider for a sweetly smoky, discernibly fruity taste.
Think apple tobacco wafting from your southern grandpappy’s pipe.
These vapors provided the punch in the best
pulled pork sandwich ($8.95) I’ve had in years. Super moist but not overtly
fatty, no sauce was necessary on the satisfying shreds. However, a dash of sweet and
tangy “Misdemeanor” did add to the experience.
The “Murder One” (hot, but not as strong as Capital Offense
or Lethal Injection), served beside my delightfully crispy brisket burnt ends
($5.95) was more complex, with a fair amount of spice, but not a lot of heat.
The clean-stripping ribs were enormous. A trio ($12.95) overflowed their
large plate. Baked beans were the best side, with a deep, surprisingly complex
flavor tempered by maple syrup.
With last year’s loss of Finkerman’s in Montpelier, there
had been a pig-shaped hole in my heart. After pounding a pile of pork at Ed’s, it’s been reduced to piglet size. Perhaps a “Double Bubba” pulled pork sandwich ($13.95) will
be the cure?
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