Alice Eats: Shelburne Steakhouse & Saloon
2545 Shelburne Road, Shelburne 802-985-5009
Two weeks after opening, 7 Nights reviewers have written six reviews of Shelburne Steakhouse. The diners were all eager for a return to Sirloin Saloon form in the space previously occupied by the lost classic. Critiques ranged from one star to five. I had to see for myself.
My server was clearly new — and nervous. After taking my order, he had to return more than once with a question about something he forgot. When I had questions, he didn't have all the answers, but was eager to please and quickly found out what I wanted to know.
Having already seen the menu online sans prices, I was expecting to pay $20 or more for entrées. I was surprised to see that tenderloin medallions cost only $16. Dinners, with unlimited visits to the salad bar, mostly cost right around that amount.
Though the salad bar is not as large as it was at the Sirloin Saloon, I filled a plate and still regretted missing several items. There were all the basic veggies, plus sweet, grilled squash and zucchini, sesame noodles and bacon-speckled potato salad. The best part: Homemade honey-chile vinaigrette, with a wonderful balance of tangy, earthy and sweet, in which I ended up dipping my bread once the salad was gone.
Even before Shelburne Steakhouse opened, I was curious about its country pâté, made in-house. That dish wouldn't have flown at fusty Sirloin Saloon, no sir. I was stunned when the plate (pictured above) arrived: Three huge, buttery planks of toast arrived with three slabs of pork loaf, wrapped in bacon, all for $9. The meat was similar in taste to creamy, spreadable rillettes, but composed enough to stay molded in an easy-to-eat shape. The taste was a pleasure in itself, but was even better when paired with the trio of condiments: tangy pepper jelly, house-made fruit chutney and grainy mustard. Fresh blackberries further dressed up the plate, along with a few small bunches of grapes. There was enough to take home, and I am excited to eat it again.
When the aforementioned tenderloin medallions arrived, I understood why the dish (pictured at right) was only $16. The portion of meat was just north of minuscule. The beef arrived medium-rare as I had requested, though a little more charred on the outside than I might have preferred. Grill marks are great; a blackened crust, less so. The meat still satisfied, especially when dipped in its buttery Madeira demiglace. Mashed potatoes were suitably creamy and green beans cooked a delightful al dente.
The pork steak also consisted of small, grilled medallions, sitting in a pool of lightly sweet, buttery sauce. What was advertised as jalepeño and corn relish on the menu was actually the salad-bar coleslaw with roasted corn and jalepeños mixed in. Tasty, but not what I was expecting. The crispy, fried sweet potatoes were a better side. I hate sweet-potato fries, but these fat wedges were soft on the inside with a crunchy coat. Imagine mashed potatoes with a side of potato chips, only sweet.
The entrées were on the small side, but that was OK -- there was room for dessert. A round of chef-made peanut-butter mousse was bolstered on top and bottom by layers of chocolate ganache. It looked like an ice cream sandwich but was far richer, especially paired with a scoop of chocolate from Island Homemade Ice Cream.
Overall, I was very pleased. There were clearly still some kinks, but for a gigantic restaurant that opened just two weeks ago, the proceedings were surprisingly smooth. Both appetizer and entrées came out with startling speed. Often, when a restaurant first opens, there are promises that more dishes will be homemade once the chef gets his footing. At Shelburne Steakhouse, practically everything — even the fairly involved dessert — already is. More upscale restaurants could learn a thing or two about value from the wonderful pâté plate. I look forward to returning.
I also went to the New Shelburne Steakhouse and thought it was wonderful. Contrary to Alice's remarks, I had the shell steak and it was huge. There was no way I could possibly eat the whole portion. The meat was cooked perfect and worth every penny of the 25.00 charged.I had the sweet potato slivers and they were delicious also. We will certainly go back. FOUR STARS!!!
Posted by: Paula Spadaccini | July 20, 2010 at 07:07 PM